The Busy Gamer Guide to PAX: Trip Prep & Seattle City Guide 2013

With PAX Prime just a few weeks away, it's time for everyone to start dusting off their con(vention) advice columns. This year, I'd like to do something a little different: a pre-guide to PAX. (Finally, a local tells you something!)

This short guide covers the stuff you should study BEFORE getting in the plane/car/train/sticking your thumb out. It focuses on things you need to know about our fair city of Seattle when you're not roaming the PAX halls.

We also have a Busy Gamer guide to help you survive and enjoy PAX itself, once you're prepped and ready: full version, short version.

But for trip prep and guidance on meals and getting around our crazy messed up town, read on!

 

Pack Ins

First things first: Pack the stuff you didn't know you'd need! Things like:

• Sunblock. Yes, really. Despite our grey reputation, Seattle can and does get hot and sunny - and you will be in and out of the great outdoors at least briefly. Get a tube and slather your arms/face/neck/legs before heading out.
• Rubber bands. Game companies love to hand out posters. If you're lucky, they might even roll them up before handing them to you. Bring rubber bands to ensure they stay tightly rolled in your bag. Offering a rubber band to a fellow traveler is also an excellent way to say high to a cute geek girl or boy.
• Bubble wrap. This is a good one to split with a friend. Pick up a small roll of bubble wrap at your local business or shipping store and pack it. You'll need it to wrap delicate souvenirs. It can also be helpful for boxed items and separating your smelly con clothes from any unworn items.
• Scissors and tape. Scissors are an invaluable in-room tool you won't find at the hotel. Use them to open difficult food packaging, remove wristbands, cut the aforementioned bubble wrap, etc. Save a small amount of bubble wrap (or the scissor packaging) to wrap them up in your suitcase for the trip home - the TSA won't let you take them in your carry on.

Most of this can fit neatly in your bag while you walk around town, but you can leave the bubble wrap back in your hotel room. If you do get to town without this stuff (or don't want to shlep it on the plane), you can always visit one of the downtown Bartell's Drugs locations before the show.

 

Safety First

Downtown Seattle is one giant game of good block/bad block. It is entirely possible to walk through the crack blocks - and no, I'm not joking - safely. There are some things to keep in mind as you roam, though.

1st Avenue, home to the Pike Place Market, the Showbox, the Seattle Art Museum, and many small boutiques and restaurants is also a major crime and drug area. I have seen people smoking crack pipes a block from the Market at 2 in the afternoon. 2nd and Pike is a notorious open-air crack market. It's also the way you will most likely travel to get to the market.

If you go anywhere near these areas, just use common sense:

• REMOVE. YOUR. BADGE. Seriously. Even if everything about you screams "I don't know my way around, I'm just here for a convention," take five seconds and remove your badge that confirms it.
• Dump your PAX bags at the hotel. You really don't want to drag your crap around everywhere anyway, do you? Large bags will make you a target - even if all you have is cheap crap that they give away free at PAX. You don't want to get mugged for picking up seven t-shirts, an inflatable sword, and a headband!
• Don't walk near doorways or too close to the street. Stay to the middle, away from the drugged-out and the traffic. Beware of people on bikes too; those folks are nuts!
• Don't use the ATMs on 1st Avenue, period. If you do need an ATM, find one indoors. Pacific Place, Westlake, and many of the business towers in the area have them.
• Do not engage. Ignore the folks on the street who talk to you. It may feel rude, but eyes forward and keep moving.
• If you're going to a show or other event at night, stay with a group and figure out your path before you go. Lost tourists alone are easy targets.

 

Getting Around Town

Now that we've gotten that out of the way, let's talk transportation nightmares. If you scored one of the official PAX hotels, congratulations! Parking - and just getting around town - is particularly difficult this year due to massive construction projects. Plus Bumbershoot is going on across town at Seattle Center, so the entire damn city is all heading to a five-mile radius. Things you should know:

• The Mercer Mess has gotten messier. If you haven't updated your GPS in more than a year, it may not know about some of the changes. Avoid Mercer at all costs.
• Aurora Avenue (a/k/a Highway 99) is also under construction. It's currently down to two lanes on both sides. Southbound, there are two lanes with a bus-only lane on the far right that evaporates suddenly near Seattle Center. It can and will back up, so give yourself extra time if you head downtown mid-day.
• If you must go to South Lake Union, take the trolley (aka the SLUT). You cannot drive anywhere around South Lake Union in a reasonable period of time. By which I mean it may take half an hour or more to go a few blocks. The Seattle Streetcar stops near Westlake Center, just a few blocks from PAX. Hop on and head down to SLU for restaurants, the Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI), or to see what your Amazon dollars has wrought.
• If you're staying with buddies on the Eastside, watch out for bridge closures. The 520 bridge closes periodically for boats and construction traffic. It is also now tolled. Consider the I-90 bridge to get to the show from Redmond/Bellevue/Kirkland and other parts East.

 

Eating Out

For the love of God, don't go to The Cheesecake Factory. Our fair city is home to some terrific food, and not all of it requires an expense report. I know, I know... The Cheesecake Factory is only a few feet from the convention center doors. The time you spend waiting could be spent going just a little farther and enjoying some really great food for about the same - and possibly less - money than you'd drop there. Some alternatives:

Breakfast:

• Blue Water Taco Grill (Near the Convention Center). Craving Mexican breakfast? You should. The 515 Union Street location has started opening on PAX weekends to feed the hungry geek hordes - and somehow y'all haven't caught on. Last year, Blue Water offered a discount with your PAX badge to sweeten the deal. Call before you go - but assume there's a good chance they'll be there. Also open for lunch.
• Biscuit Bitch at Caffe Lieto (Near the Pike Place Market). This Southern hole in the wall that's a little uphill from the Pike Place Market will delight your taste buds every bit as much as it hardens your arteries. (Vegetarians be warned: This place loves them some bacon. They do have some non-animal options, though.) Worth the hike, and it will fuel you well for the long PAX haul. They're also open late night for those of you visiting the Showbox (or the - ahem - other show box next door).
• Macrina Bakery (Belltown). Don't let the high-end bakery prices fool you - the food here is terrific, and the servings will keep you fed. I'm particularly fond of the Brioche Egg Sandwich. For cheap eats, grab a Demi Macrina Baguette with butter and jam for $1.20. You won't even need the jam. Also open for lunch.
• Top Pot Doughnuts. As seen on Penny Arcade's Strip Search this year! Worth the haul. Check out the Downtown Flagship Cafe at 2124 5th Avenue - walk to Westlake and follow the monorail track, keeping the monorail on your left. Decent coffee, too. Open all day.
• CJs (Belltown). Want a sit-down breakfast? Try CJs, where the hashbrowns are the size of your head - and that's the side dish. We've explored the menu and never had a bad meal. The service is super fast and the staff are tattoo-friendly, despite the "stuck in the '80s" hotel décor. Far enough away from PAX that you won't be overrun by fellow PAXers, and - don't worry - the Bumbershooters have their own food supply. Oh, did I mention the killer scones? Open all day.

Lunch:

All of the places mentioned above have lunch, but you may not want to travel too far mid-show. (Exception: Blue Water Taco Grill, which is just a couple blocks away.) Other nearby options:

• Go to the Market... but choose carefully. Avoid the tourist traps and use the market the way it was intended. Get an entrée (cheap sandwiches, bao, and other options are everywhere), grab some fruit from a Washington farmer, and walk to the park at the north end of the Market. Free waterfront views and delicious fare. A few personal faves:
• DeLaurenti (In the Pike Place Market). This Italian Market has a huge selection of sliced-on-demand deli meats, olives, cheeses, and bread. Or, if you want something hot, head to the back of the store and pick up a fresh slice of pizza or grilled Panini. Splurge on a chocolate chip cannoli for dessert - it's baked and stuffed while you wait!
• Three Girls Bakery (In the Pike Place Market). Hidden away in the market, but worth the hunt. Incredibly fresh bread and sandwiches that will more than fill you up.

TIP: To avoid the flying fish morass, enter either the Market from 1st Avenue by the newsstand, or turn right at the crowds and enter through the next door a few hundred feet to the north. There are several food vendors in both corridors. Just turn around when you hear the "HHHEEEYYY" of the fishmongers and go out the way you came. DeLaurenti's cafe door entrance is right next to the newsstand - you can get to the full store through there as well.

• Walk to the Westlake Mall. The food court is on the top floor, adjacent to the monorail. This is a good option for those with varying budgets in your party. You'll find everything from the standard McDonald's/Sbarro to slightly exotic fast food and barbeque. Avoid the Indian Place, it's been a consistent disappointment and there are much better options for Indian food in Seattle.
• Walk to the Pacific Place Mall. No food courts here - just restaurants strewn around the mall. Most of them are on the top floor by the AMC movie theater. Here you'll find Wild Ginger (upscale Thai), Johnny Rockets (50's style hamburger chain), a Gordon Biersch (brew pub chain), and a Mexican place. For cheap eats, hit the Pike Place Chowder stand - it's terrific. On the lower levels, you'll find three flavors of Il Fornaio, an upscale Italian chain. The Risotteria stand inside the mall offers pastas, salads, and panini for slightly more than a fast food restaurant; the Cafe on the ground floor offers salads and sandwiches. (There's also the fancy restaurant in between, but that's really a sit-down dinner place.) Grab and go or have one made to order, if you have time.
• Nordstrom Cafe (In Nordstrom, just off the skywalk accessible from the 4th floor of Pacific Place). When you stop laughing, check out the menu. This place is aces, from the food to the service. Order at the counter and then sit down to enjoy a full service, healthy lunch for the same price as your local bakery. The Cafe does get busy during mid-day shopping hours - you won't be getting your food the second your order. This can be an opportunity to enjoy some downtime and talk to fellow humans. Just don't forget to tip. (Open all day.)

Dinner Near PAX:

There are plenty of dining options near the convention center. Here are a few good ones:

• Blue C Sushi. This is the place with the fun little conveyor belts packed with sushi rolls, tempura, gyoza, edamame pods, and even dessert. At the end of the meal, they tally up what you ate and charge you by the plate. Can be pricey if you're not careful!
• Ruth's Chris Steakhouse. They usually have a PAX discount, and you might see some of the exhibitors at nearby tables.
• P.F. Chang's (Westlake). Decent, mid-range Chinese food. The lettuce wraps are hard to resist!

There are several other places mentioned for lunch that give good dinner, including Gordon Biersch and Il Fornaio at Pacific Place.

Dinner for Those with Cars and an Expense Account (or Willingness to Splurge):

OK, by now you're exhausted, and The Cheesecake Factory is RIGHT THERE. It's also going to take forever to get a table, so you might as well go back to the hotel, take a refreshing shower, and consider going somewhere decent. Here are some options:

• Poppy. Chef Jerry Traunfeld made his bones at the legendary Herb Garden, but that was nothing compared to what he's done lately. It's Seattle-style fusion served in the style of an Indian thali. Get a tequila and jalapeno-infused Papi Delicious (or three, if you're not driving), order some eggplant fries, and settle in for one of the best meals you'll ever have, period. Tip: There is PAID parking in the back. Street parking is free after certain hours (look for the postings), but can be hard to find.
• Chinook's. Not upscale and won't take reservations - but worth the trip to hell and gone. This is where locals go to celebrate, commiserate, and eat, eat, eat. Best seafood in town, and a helluva lot cheaper than other places. Expect a wait on weekend nights - go early if you can. Bonus: This is the dock where the Deadliest Catch people park their boat. Take a walk on the docks while you wait. It will be gorgeous this time of year.
• Anything owned by Tom Douglas. Sometimes, people get famous for the right reasons. Tom Douglas has done some amazing things with food around town, and has many options from which to choose. Great picks include Etta's at the Market, Lola, Palace Kitchen, and Dahlia Lounge. Pass on Serious Pie unless you like overpriced frou frou thin crust pizza.
• Anything owned by Maria Hines. You will officially have to leave downtown to eat at any of the restaurants owned by Iron Chef/Top Chef/Badass Chef Maria Hines, but it's worth it. I recommend the Golden Beetle in Ballard, but there's also Tilth in Wallingford and Agrodolce in Fremont.

Dessert:

Dahlia Bakery. If you don't go anywhere else unique to Seattle during your visit, go to the Dahlia Bakery and buy some of their exquisite baby Coconut Cream Pies. Eat one before you leave, then get right back in line. They are unbelievably good, and worth the are-you-kidding-me price. Trust me on this.

I'm sick of PAX, what else you got?

Occasionally, people ask me what else there is to do in Seattle besides walk the con floor. Here are a few ideas:

• Bumbershoot (Seattle Center - all weekend). Because PAX isn't crowded enough! Spend the day surrounded by Seattleites at this massive celebration of music and arts. All concerts are free with paid admission, but expect to spend a lot of time standing for any acts who have actually appeared on mainstream radio. Headliners typically require a wristband which means you'll have to devote the better part of a day to Bumbershoot over PAX. Since PAX is a soul-crushing four days this year, you might be OK with that.
• EMP/SFM (Seattle Center). Half music, half science-fiction, all groovy. Current exhibits include Women Who Rock, Nirvana, Jimi Hendrix, and Can't Look Away (horror movies). Celebrity geeks like Simon Pegg sometimes show up. But you'll have to get through the Bumbershoot traffic to get there.
• Seattle Art Museum (downtown). Cosplayers should make an effort to check out the looney toons Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion exhibit, which is free with admission. Seriously, go.
• Pacific Science Center (Seattle Center). Home to laser shows and IMAX. The Laser Beatles show is actually pretty good.
• Teatro Zinzanni (near Seattle Center). Expensive, but if you can afford it, really cool. Think of a raunchy circus cabaret with Tom Douglas food, and you've just scratched the surface. Discounted gift cards are often sold in area Costco stores - ask your friends. Also, watch their twitter for rush ticket opportunities and other discounts.

NOTE: If you have any favorite retail haunts in the Seattle Center area, check ahead to see if they're around. Several geek-friendly places have folded or moved this year, most notably Easy Street Records and Silver Platters. And there's that whole Bumbershoot thing again.

One Last Thing, Hippie...

Still with me? Good. Because this may be the single most important thing I tell you. You've probably heard that Washington State legalized marijuana. While it is technically legal, they haven't figured out what that means yet. We ain't Amsterdam - you will not find pot for sale in Starbucks (yet). It is also still illegal to smoke it in public. In fact, it's illegal to smoke ANYTHING within 25 feet of a building entrance or vent.

Anyway, try again next year. The entire city should be baked by then. And probably all eating at The Cheesecake Factory.